Archive for September, 2009

The Mojave

I’m a huge fan of the desert. The other-worldly formations of sand and rock.  The earthy hues. The struggle for the living to survive in the harsh environment.  The archaeological remnants of those who settled in the area or just simply traveled through.  The solitude that is so easily found.  I love it all.  So much so, that I made it a resolution to visit it every weekend in April (I ended up going three of the four weekends). All in all I visited the Mojave Desert seven times before it got too hot (and before I started this 100 hikes resolution).  My favorite spots are Joshua Tree National Park and the Mojave National Preserve.

Lava tubes found in the Mojave Desert

Lava tubes found in the Mojave Desert

I’ve been chomping on the bit to get back out there and explore new areas. I’m already planning a few trips into the desert, but I’m waiting for the temperatures to drop below those found on the surface of the sun.

I was introduced to the Mojave Desert in 2000, when a few friends and I headed out to Death Valley National Park in May. Despite our ignorance of the incredible heat during that time of year, I was hooked on the desert environment. I’ve since been back to Death Valley nine times, each time I find something new and completely unique to the desert.

So what is there to see other than a lot of dust and sand you ask? Well the fine people of the Death Valley Natural History Association have commissioned a video to show you. The non-profit organization dedicated to supporting the educational, interpretive, and scientific activities of Death Valley National Park hired two extraordinary documentarians to capture the essence of the park in all seasons. If Living Death Valley is anything like its trailer, I’m most likely going to gain weight on all the eye candy.

The DVD costs $19.95 plus shipping & handling. All sales of the DVD benefit the Park. It can be ordered from bristleconemedia.com.

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The Hiking Gene

If hiking was hereditary, I most certainly got the gene from my grandmother.  She has done hundreds of miles of hiking, all of them after her 70th birthday.  She’s now 94 years old and that chapter of her life has passed, but she is a wonderful story teller and has a great memory.  She shared with me some of her favorite hikes, including Three Fingered Jack Mountain (hike #31). The painting , done of a friend of hers, portrays my grandma Kirk and two friends (all three over 70 at the time) hiking in Canyon Creek Meadows.  I’ve seen this painting many times over the years so it was nice to be able to see the trail first hand during my stay in Oregon

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My grandma and I.

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This painting was featured in an article about my grandmother printed in The Oregonian, the state's largest newspaper.

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Hike 32 – Suttle Lake, Oregon

First solo hike in Oregon! (kinda)
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Suttle Lake Trail - Hike #32!

Suttle Lake is a small resort lake in the Deschutes National Forest. Most visitors come to the lake to either stay at the quaint Suttle Lake Lodge, camp along the southern shores, or come for the day. Activities include water skiing, swimming, canoeing, fishing, and hiking.

We stopped in for lunch at a small restaurant on the water. Afterward, I took off on foot while they drove to the western end of the lake and wait for me to meet them. We packed the walkie talkies so we would be in communication along the way.

Plants, flowers, and birds are all along the trail, which never strays more than a few yards from the water’s edge. The trail is marked as an official hiking trail and not just a foot path between the three or four camping areas along the lake. What that means is that you won’t find someone on a bike or a horse, or carrying a canoe down to the water from the trail. Signs are posted along the trail to make sure there aren’t any misunderstandings about this.

It was a bit strange though to walk through campsites along the trail. I found campers reclining in beach chairs facing the water just off of the trail. In these instances, I felt like the guy in the middle of the movie theatre who had to go to the restroom, apologizing as he made his way down the row, momentarily blocking others view of the film. But most were very pleasant and curious about my hike. I suppose that not too many people come to the lake for hiking, despite the dedicated trail. I only saw two or three other hikers on the trail myself.

About two miles into the three-mile hike, Dad surprised me on the trail. He wanted to experience the trail with me and I was happy to see him. We hiked the remaining mile until we met Mom at the car.

Thoughts about the hike:

  1. There weren’t many mosquitoes on this trail, despite the proximity to the water.
  2. The final stretch of the trek required an unexpected detour. Apparently, a small footbridge over Link Creek had been washed out and what should have been just 100 yards of hiking ended up being an additional quarter of a mile.
  3. The name of the lake, “Suttle Lake” is actually an incorrect name. It was stumbled upon by settlers in 1859, who named it Butte Lake. Seven years later, a pioneer named John Settle “discovered” it again and named it it after himself, not realizing it was already named. But neither would win the name game, for over the years the lake has been misspelled so many times, it has subtly changed to “Suttle” and Oregonians settled on the name Suttle Lake in the end.
  4. Although the Lodge at Suttle Lake looks old, it was actually built in 2005. But the area has had similar lodging going back to the 1920s. Some say that the Point cabin, located right on the water, is haunted. Originally built in 1925, it has burned to the ground (and later rebuilt) three times. The last one was destroyed in 1941 and finally rebuilt with the lodge in 2005.

Hike #32 Trip GPS Stats:

  • Date of hike: July 19th, 2009
  • Location: Suttle Lake, Deschutes National Forest, near Sisters, Oregon
  • Length: 2.9 miles
  • Duration: 1 hour, 52 minutes
  • Average speed: ±1.5 mph
  • Altitude at start: 3,457 feet
  • Altitude min.max: 3,457/3,477 feet

This map was made with the data my GPS captured on the hike.
For a more detailed trip report map, check this out.

Photos:

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A small lagoon on the eastern edge of the lake.

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Great Basin Wood Nymph (Cercyonis sthenele) taking flight.

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A forgotten pair of sandals makes for a photo opportunity.

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A wild rose in the shade

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I love how all the leaves of this plant are facing the sun.

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Marsh forget-me-not (Myosotis scorpiodes)

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My dad on the trail

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Sportin' the hiking card.

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Suttle Lake in Blue.

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Hike 31 – Canyon Creek Meadows Loop

A beautiful hike during the peak season of wildflowers
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Canyon Creek Meadow below Three-Fingered Jack Mountain

For my first full day in Oregon, I was excited to get out into the wilds of the Cascades.  My parents and I were up early (they’re used to it, I am not.) and were on the road by 8:15am.  We hoped to hit three trails today, a feat that has alluded me in the past.  It always seems that I’ve run out of enough light or energy for the third hike, but we’ll see how this goes.

Our first hike of the day would be in the Willamette National Forest in the Mt.  Jefferson Wilderness.  The hike would take us to the base of Three-Fingered Jack Mountain.  A guidebook on the area says it is a “deeply glaciated basaltic andesite shield centered on a pyroclastic cone.”  I attempted to memorize the definition and used it in conversations throughout the day.  “Dad, have you ever seen a more beautiful deeply glaciated basaltic andesite shield centered on a pyroclastic cone?“  “Mom, do you suppose we can stop on the way home and get a deeply glaciated basaltic andesite shield centered on a pyroclastic ice cream cone?

Our journey to the trailhead couldn’t have happened anywhere else but Oregon.  Look at a detailed map of Oregon and you’ll find the state covered in a patchwork of fire access roads, most of them with exciting names like “Road 1230″ or “Road 288″.   Odometers are an important tool in navigation for usually the directions involve counting miles.  “In 4.4 miles, turn on Road 1234…”

We climbed dirt roads over rolling hills in the good ol’ Prius before arriving a the trailhead around 9:15am.  With such an out-of-the-way trail, we were surprised to find quite a  few vehicles parked at the traihead.  But I reminded myself again that this is Oregon, and Oregonians tend to get outside on the weekends.

The trail was gorgeous.  The wildflowers were everywhere and with the came the insects.  The photogenic butterflies kept me stopping constantly with my camera while the blood-sucking mosquitoes kept my parents from stopping.  (Apparently, insects don’t particularly like my blood.)

After three miles of hiking, we arrived at the Canyon Creek Meadows.  Single-file paths lead through the thick foliage of bear grass, aster flowers, wooly sunflowers, shooting stars, paintbrushes, and lupines.  And as a backdrop to it all was the deeply glaciated basaltic andesite shield centered on a pyroclastic cone, better known as Three-Fingered Jack Mountain.

I was a little frustrated by the number of hikers on the trail in the meadow. Two hikers decided on setting up their picnic right in the middle of the meadow, ruining any chance for a nature photo by me and other hiking photographers.  Finally, after 20 minutes, most of the hikers moved on, leaving just my parents and I in the meadow to enjoy the flowers and birds.

We had originally planned to retrace our steps to the trailhead, but we heard from other hikers that the forestry service requests that hikers complete the clockwise loop, limiting the number of hikers meeting on the trail.  Now that’s an request I can get behind!

On the way back, we followed the gently flowing Canyon Creek through the woods.  This section of the trail also revealed the damage of the 2003 B&B Complex Fire, which burned 90,769 acres.  Oddly,  in some parts, the fire seemed to have been stopped right at the trail, so in one direction it’s nothing but burned trees while in the other direction, lush green foliage.  My dad commented on how it seemed strange to see so many dead trees standing yet not a single woodpecker.  In fact, I didn’t see any birds, chipmonks, squirrels, or lizards on the trail.

We got back to our car around 1:30pm and headed to our next stop… (see Hike #32)

Thoughts about the hike:

  1. Although it was the peak season of wildflowers, it was also the peak of mosquitoes. They didn’t bother me much on the trail, but they were horrible at Canyon Creek Meadow.  I couldn’t stand still for more than a minute before I had a squadron of mozzie fighters raiding my neck and face.
  2. A Northwest Forest Pass parking permit is required at the trailhead. It costs $5 per car.
  3. My parents are speed demons on the trail. They say that it’s the mosquitoes keeping them from stopping, but I think they’re just quick on their feet.

Resources:

  1. Oregon Hikes – Canyon Creek Meadows
  2. Wilderness area has corners of wonder despite scars from fire

Hike #31 Trip GPS Stats:

  • Date of hike: July 19th, 2009
  • Location: Mt. Jefferson Wilderness, Willamette National Forest, Oregon
  • Length: 5.5 miles
  • Duration: 4 hours, 14 minutes
  • Average speed: ±1.3 mph
  • Altitude at start: 5,146 feet
  • Altitude min.max: 5,146/5,673 feet

This map was made with the data my GPS captured on the hike.
For a more detailed trip report map, check this out.

Photos:

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Mom & Dad walking around tiny Jack Lake

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Late July was the perfect time to see wildflowers in bloom

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In 2003, the B&B Complex Fire burned 90,769 acres - stopping right at the Canyon Creek Meadows Trail.

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Mom & Dad in front of the trail sign.

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Mom enjoying the colors along the trail.

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A female Northern Blue (Plebejus idas)

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Edith's Checkerspot (Euphydryas editha quino)

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California Tortoise Shell (Nymphalis californica)

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Canyon Creek Meadows

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Number thirty-one! woot!

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Pachyta armata enjoying a flower

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A flower longhorn beetle (Neoalosterna rubida)

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A black pine sawyer beetle (Monochamus scutellatus)

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Hike 30 – Shevlin Park Loop Trail, Oregon

The first of many hikes during a 9-day stay in Central Oregon
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Hiking with the parents!

A new chapter of 100hikes.com begins with this post. In July, I traveled to Oregon, my home state, to visit my parents. They were excited about my 100 hikes resolution and wanted to take part, so my Dad and I worked for weeks on planning different hiking options. I wasn’t off the plane for more than a few hours before we hit the trail.

Shevlin Regional Park is located a few miles outside of the high desert town of Bend, Oregon. I can’t say I knew anything about the park until i got out of the car at the trailhead. Immediately, I was snapping photos of all the

My family on an Oregon camping trip (1981)

My family on an Oregon camping trip (1981)

wondrous plants, flowers, and birds. It somehow surprised me that if you travel far enough, the flora and fauna change drastically. The chaparral plants I’ve come familiar with in Southern California aren’t anywhere to be seen here in Oregon. They’re replaced by odoriferous ponderosa pines, fields of waist-high bear grass, trails lined with wild roses, hardhack, yarrow and quaking aspen. And the birds! Just the names of the types of birds found in this area brought a smile: red-naped sapsucker, MacGillivray’s warbler, the pileated woodpecker, the grey catbird… All of this visual stimuli stopped me on the trail countless times. There was just so much to see!

We hiked along a well defined trail called the Shevlin Park Loop Trail, which hugs the Tumalo Creek. My dad, who grew up in Bend and recently moved back with Mom, told “I remember when…” stories about the area, giving a personal and historical touch to the hike.

Thoughts about the hike:

  1. I was so happy to be in Oregon and hiking with my parents!
  2. The US Forest Service added logs into Tumalo Creek which either creates sanctuaries for fish or makes for better fishing, depending on how you look at it.

Resources:

  1. Deschutes & Ochoco National Forests – Crooked River National Grassland – Shevlin Park
  2. Bend Parks and Recreation

Hike #30 Trip GPS Stats:

  • Date of hike: July 19th, 2009
  • Location: Shevlin Regional Park – Bend, Oregon
  • Length: 2.0 miles
  • Duration: 2 hour, 13 minutes
  • Average speed: ±0.9 mph
  • Altitude at start: 3,512 feet
  • Altitude min.max: 3,512/3,664 feet

This map was made with the data my GPS captured on the hike.
For a more detailed trip report map, check this out.

Photos:

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While Mom prepares lunch, I read over the material my parents collected on Central Oregon hiking.

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And a way we go! The Shevlin Park Loop trailhead.

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Fields of bear grass.

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Red clover (Trifolium pratense)

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Wood rose (Rosa gymnocarpa)

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Logs were placed into the Tumalo Creek to either create sanctuaries for fish or make for better fishing, depending on how you look at it.

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Reflections of the past

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Dad lost Mom.

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Hardhack (Spiraea douglasii)

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Tumalo Creek

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Hixon Crossing Covered Bridge

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Black-headed grosbeak (Pheucticus melanocephalus)

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This photo might look funny, but they're smelling a ponderosa pine. The scent is very similar to butterscotch and is one of my favorite natural smells.

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Pinedrops (Pterospora andromedea)

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"Peace & Geese" - this would be the only graffiti I would see on all the trails I hiked in Oregon on this trip.

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Hike 29 – Hermit Falls (II)

Ok, let’s try this hike again…

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Josh, Melanie and myself on First Water Trail near Hermit Falls

This would be the second outing for Melanie, Josh & I in this area of the Angeles National Forest. When we came here last week (hike #26), we didn’t have enough time to get down to Hermit Falls from Chantry Flats before I had to rush home to get ready for work. So we met up a little bit earlier – at 7:15am – and didn’t dilly dally around. We picked a good morning to hike, seeing only five people on the trail (highly unusual for the Chantry Flats area).

The falls were a let down. The natural beauty of the area was stained by graffiti and trash. There were coolers, underwear, socks, a half-eaten paper-bag lunch… it was as if there was an emergency evacuation and everybody left their crap at the falls. Nevertheless, the trail to the falls was clean and, in fact, quite beautiful.

Thoughts about the hike:

  1. I found a pair of sunglasses at the falls that I liked. Unfortunately, the owner realized he left them and was prepared to run from the parking lot back down to the falls to retrieve them. Lucky for him, we had hiked most of that distance before he ran into us on the trail. He thanked me for saving him the trip as I reluctantly returned his sunglasses. Easy come, easy go.
  2. We celebrated the completion of the hike by going to Robek’s Juice and getting smoothies.

Resources:

  1. Modern Hiker | Hiking Santa Anita Canyon
  2. Dan’s Hiking Page – Hermit Falls

Hike #29 Trip GPS Stats:

  • Date of hike: July 16th, 2009
  • Location: Big Santa Anita Canyon – Sierra Madre, California
  • Length: 2.8 miles
  • Duration: 2 hours, 36 minutes
  • Average speed: ±1.4 mph
  • Altitude at start: 2,216 feet
  • Altitude min.max: 1,539/2,216 feet

This map was made with the data my GPS captured on the hike.
For a more detailed trip report map, check this out.

Photos:

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Posing along the river at First Water

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Glorious morning light shining on Melanie.

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I love the reflective power of a calm stream.

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Melanie photographing me photographing her.

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This isn't a camera's trick - the morning light made some portions of the water golden in color.

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My favorite spot on the trail - even better than the falls.

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So clean! Love it!

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Josh posing along the stream.

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Notice the graffiti below the final falls.

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Hermit Falls

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Adventurers!

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An ironclad beetle found near the falls.

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"SAY WHAT??"

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Melanie before the return up hill. "The up is still gonna suck."

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A New Look… Again

I’ve decided (again) to change the look of my site. Hope you like it!

Chilao Visitor Center Still Standing

It has been confirmed that the Chilao Visitor Center was not affected by the Station Fire. The following photo was taken by a public information officer with the U.S. Forest Service on September 18th. The unique building was designed by Harold Nelson, a visitor to this site who graciously shared this photo with us.  Based on early reports during the height of the fire, it wasn’t clear if the firefighters were able to save the building, which has been a icon of the National Forestry Service since it was built in 1980. It is a relief to find that the building was untouched by the fire. The Station Fire was started by an arsonist on August 26th. It is currently 94% contained and has burned 160,557 acres, making it the 10th largest wildfire [PDF] in California’s recorded history.

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Progress Report (September 21st)

This is a progress report for September 21st, 2009:

It has been a tough ride since the last progress report (August 27th). The tragic Station Fire packed a one-two punch with the fires destroying some of my favorite trails  and the smoke keeping me from doing other hikes in the area. The graph below compares the number of hikes I should have completed so far (the blue line) with the number of hikes I have completed (the red line). You can see how my progress suddenly halted due to the fire. By September 11th, I was six hikes behind schedule, the biggest gap of this project to date.

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However, a planned expedition to the Southwest saved me. Along with visiting three states (Nevada, Utah, and Arizona), rolling over 2,000 miles on my car’s odometer, and exploring many of this country’s finest public lands, I also hiked.

I hiked a lot.

During the nine-day trip, I hiked over 50 miles in Bryce Canyon National Park, Capitol Reef National Park, Escalante Petrified Forest State Park, Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument, Arches National Park, Zion National Park, Glen Canyon National Recreation Area, and the Paria Canyon-Vermilion Cliffs Wilderness. Whew!

Of the eleven hikes I went on, nine were “official” 100hike.com hikes but an additional two fell shy of the requirements (mainly due to being just shy of 2 miles in length). The week of travel not only renewed my spirit, but also brought me back on schedule to finish 100 hikes before the end of the year, something I had been worried about during the fires.

Here’s something fun for those of you who like numbers:

  • Number of hikes completed: 57
  • Number of days into project: 140
  • Number of miles hiked: 262.3 miles
  • Longest hike: 15.9 miles (Hike #48 – San Gorgonio Mountain)
  • Hardest hike: Hike #21 (Telescope Peak, Death Valley)
  • Furthest hike from home: Hike #38 (Terrebonne, Oregon – 851 miles from home)

If you hike with me, you become a prestigious respected member of the newly-formed “100 Hikes Club.”

  • Number of members: 44 (and three dogs)
  • Top 5 ranking members:
    • Dad (9 hikes: #30, 31, 32, 33, 34, 35, 36, 37 & 38)
    • Mom (7 hikes: #30, 31, 33, 34, 36, 37 & 38)
    • Melanie (5 hikes: #5, 13, 26, 29 & 40)
    • Chris (4 hikes: #6, 21, 42 & 44)
    • Samantha (4 hikes: #18, 21, 39 & 42)

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It has been a tough month for me having to cope with the losses in the Angeles National Forest, but your support during this time has kept me going.  Thank you.

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Utah Bound!

Tomorrow I leave for a 9-day exploration of Southern Utah, a trip four years in the making. I’ll be bringing along my laptop so expect tweets as I check out what the state has to offer. Feel free to post any suggestions on where to hike in the comments section below. Hopefully I’ll get in quite a few hikes (including the big number Five-Oh) before returning on September 20th.

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