Archive for category hikes

Hike 41 – Haines Canyon to Sister Elsie Trail

Aug 29

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Dusk over Tujunga, CA.

I hadn’t explored much of the western-facing foothills of the Angeles National Forest and was looking for something new. Then I read about Haines Canyon from Casey over at modernhiker.com. The strenuous hike up to the top of Mount Lukens didn’t interest me as much as the small section of the route called Sister Elsie Trail. Unlike the wide fire road that is Haines Canyon “trail,” Sister Elsie is a single-track rugged trail through coastal oaks, healthy sycamores, and a little stream.

I had a nice time hiking both Haines Canyon and Sister Elsie trails. I wish I had started earlier though: I was racing against the sun and didn’t care to do a night hike today, especially up a canyon I had not been before. Regretfully*, I turned around just a mile or so up Sister Elsie Trail, hiking back down, towards the sunset. Before exiting the canyon, I unexpectedly took a detour up to the top of a small hill north of the catch basin and caught the last of the sunlight setting over Tujunga, the Verdugo Mountains, and the expansive San Fernando Valley. I stayed into dusk and watched the city lights twinkle below and a few stars appear above. Despite my late start and disappointment on not making it all the way up Sister Elsie Trail, it was a nice afternoon of hiking.

Thoughts about the hike:

I finally found a pair of boots that work for me: Columbia
*The Station Fire, one of the worst wildfires in California’s recorded history, has caused significant damage in Haines Canyon. Just three weeks after my hike (August 31, 2009), fires roared through the canyon, destroying most of the wildlife captured in the photos below. The area is closed to visitors until at least the Spring of 2011. Hopefully, with a little time, patience, and luck, we’ll be able to hike in Haines Canyon again.
Parking on the street is illegal above 10439 Haines Canyon Avenue

Resources:

Hike #41 Trip GPS Stats:

Date of hike: August 9th, 2009
Location: Tujunga, California
Length: 3.9 miles
Duration: 2 hours, 24 minutes
Average speed: ±1.6 mph
Altitude at start: 1,119 feet
Altitude min.max: 1,122/1,092 feet

This map was made with the data my GPS captured on the hike.
For a more detailed trip report map, check this out.

Video:

Photos:

Haines Canyon Dam

Heading up Haines Canyon "Trail" - a wide fire road.

Passed a big darkling beetle on the path. He asked to borrow my cell phone.

I have never seen so much poison oak! Luckily, it was a few feet off the trail.

Haines Canyon was full of California Buckwheat.

Not sure what these are, but the seeds rattled a bit when the wind blew through them.

A view down Haines Canyon from Sister Elsie Trail

While Haines Canyon Trail had quite a few human footprints, the lesser-used Sister Elsie Trail had quite a few deer tracks, like this one pictured above.

An old cement water reservoir guards one side of the canyon.

These types of yucca has many common names: Spanish Boyonet, Our Lord's Candle, foothill yucca... but I'm going with the name friend and fellow hiker, Shawnté, has nicknamed them: Stabby little asshole plants.

The smiling man in the rocks.

My last view up Haines Canyon before calling it a day.

Sunset over the San Fernando Valley from the mouth of Haines Canyon.

Tags: Angeles National Forest, Haines Canyon, Sister Elsie Trail

Hike 40 – Eaton Canyon (II)

May 10

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A repeat hike with a few new surprises.

Hike #40 in Eaton Canyon with Melanie

I first explored Eaton Canyon back in July (hike #22) on a busy holiday weekend. I was curious on how crowded the trail would be on a weekday morning, so I met my friend Melanie and we headed up the trail. This was the fifth hike Melanie has joined me on. I can always count on her for a great weekday morning expedition!

We arrived at the trailhead at 8:30am. As suspected, the trail wasn’t as crowded as it was on July 3rd. We passed only about 20-25 people as we headed up the wash and into the canyon. One hiker we saw leaving had a bag full of trash, showing that there are both people that care a lot about this canyon as well as those who don’t care at all. Strangely enough, the last time I saw a hiker carrying out a bag of trash was on this very trail.

There was some sort of embankment repair work being done near the mouth of the canyon, by the bridge. A bulldozer and dump truck worked together, sharing the fire road with hikers. The noise of the heavy machinery faded quickly as we entered the canyon.

When Melanie and I arrived at the Eaton Canyon waterfall, no one else was there! How unusual! We had the falls to ourselves for just a few minutes before three groups totaling eight people arrived. Oh well, it was nice while it lasted.

Thoughts about the hike:

Viewing and heading nature in the morning before going to work is a better way to start the day than a cup of joe. We saw and heard my favorite hiking bird, the canyon wren, whos song sounds a lot like laughter.
A little brown bat flew above our heads and around the canyon before coming to rest on a rock. It seemed a bit unusual to me for a bat to be out during the day. Since they are nocturnal feeders, it may very well have had rabies.

Resources: & GPS Stats: See: hike #22

Photos:

The lighting in the canyon was magical.

This type of robber fly is genetically disguised as a bumblebee. The wolf dressed in sheep's clothing burglarizes hives and steals food/young without the real bees discovering the thief in their midst!

Melanie & I at the waterfall (left)

A brown bat on the canyon wall. It most likely had rabies.

A warning one should take seriously.

Tags: Angeles National Forest, Eaton Canyon Natural Area Park, waterfalls

Hike 39 – Bill Cull & Waterfall Trail

May 10

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First trip to Monrovia Canyon Park.

Hike #39 in Monrovia Canyon Waterfall with Sam & Indy

I had found out about Monrovia Canyon Park on the Internet. You’d think that, since I live just a dozen miles from it, I would have heard about the wilderness park from friends or other hikers, but it has gone undetected by me for seven years. This is not to say the park is unknown to everyone. From what I’ve read online, the city-run park is very popular with locals. Who wouldn’t want to start the day by hiking an easy trail running next to a babbling stream and ending at a waterfall?

I hiked with Sam and Indy, the dog she was sitting. Sam and I last hiked together a month ago, on Telescope Peak (Hike #21). We began the hike up the Bill Cull Trail at 9am on a Saturday. I expected that we would see a lot of people today, but the weather was a bit gray and the canyon was misty, which was enough to keep the trails unpopulated. We saw just a handful of people.

Thoughts about the hike:

It costs $5 per vehicle to enter the park. Some people get around this fee by parking outside the entrance and walking (about a 1/2 mile) into the park. The park keeps strict hours – 8am to 5pm daily – so make sure you leave before 5pm or you might find your car locked in overnight.
The trails in the area are well marked, but there’s a free map at the entrance booth that I recommend picking up on your way in.

Resources:

Hike #39 Trip GPS Stats:

Date of hike: August 1st, 2009
Location: Monrovia, California
Length: 3.1 miles
Duration: 1 hours, 59 minutes
Average speed: ±2 mph
Altitude at start: 1,024 feet
Altitude min.max: 1,024/1,762 feet

This map was made with the data my GPS captured on the hike.
For a more detailed trip report map, check this out.

Photos:

A wood seat now a permanent addition to this oak tree.

One of a few signs to help you stay to the trail (not that the trail is difficult to follow).

Crooked River

Samantha and a happy Indy.

Monrovia Canyon Waterfall with Sam & Indy

Tags: Bill Cull Trail, Monrovia Canyon Park

Hike 38 – Crooked River Trail, Smith Rock SP

Jan 21

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Ever heard of this place? Neither had I!

If you were living in Oregon in the 1950s, you probably never heard much about Smith Rock. My Dad was born and raised in Bend, a stone’s throw from the rocky landscape reminiscent of the Grand canyon, and even he didn’t hear much of the place other than being a beautiful formation of rocks. It wasn’t even a blip on the tourism radar back then. But in the late 1980s, local rock climber Alan Watts and others put the place on the map by establishing some of the most difficult climbing routes in the world. It is now considered the birthplace of American sport climbing with thousands of routes – including more than 1,000 bolted lines – in the 651 acres of land.

The state park offers more than just hard-core climbing. There are miles of trails running through the area, offering some spectacular views of the central Cascades. For hike #38, my parents and I headed north from Bend to check out the “geologic wonderland.”

We arrived just after sunrise and thought we had most of the park to ourselves, but after a closer look at the rocky crags jutting out of the ground, we noticed a few rock climbers. The goal for the morning was to hike the River Trail, which hugs the appropriately-named Crooked River. When we reached the Mesa Verde Trail, my parents would head back the way we came and meet me back at the car. I would continue up the steep trail, over Misery Ridge, and down the other side to the river and back up “The Chute” to the parking lot.

The morning was cool and still. The sun slowly rose and made the rocks glow like a campfire in reds, yellows and oranges. The river flowed gently, reflecting the monolithic rocks in its deep waters. Rock climbers have made thousands of routes on these rocks, with names like The Christian Bros., The Dihedrals, The Morning Glory Wall, and Monkey Face. The latter is one of the more famous of the routes, with a very distinct shape that goes well with its name.

The nature of the area was outstanding. On the course of the hike, I counted over a dozen deer sightings – including a few bucks. I witnessed a coyote chasing a young faun, who got away with a few heart-racing pronks along the grass-covered river valley. Western skink lizards darted under rocks and cottontail rabbits hopped into brush as I trekked passed.

I felt sad leaving the beautiful river trail and up the Mesa Verde Trail, but I exchanged the serenity of the river’s edge with the majesty of the views. In less than a mile, I would climb over 1,000 vertical feet. It’s no wonder they call it Misery Ridge! During the switchback hell, I stopped frequently to check out the views. Below the river snaked along the base of the towering rocks. The high desert spread out before me – the air so clear I could see all the way to the snow-capped Cascades. When I wasn’t looking at the view, I was admiring the fearless climbers on Monkey Face. A group of teens from Wyoming had traveled out here to climb the world-famous rock. I continued onto the summit (3,360 feet) and lost my breath at the view. I stood close to the edge of a rocky ledge for just long enough to picture what it would feel like to fall 3,000 feet to the river far below.

I made my way down Misery Ridge Trail to rejoin my parents at the trailhead. My thoughts were filled with all the beauty I have seen over the last week in Oregon. This was my final hike of my trip. I had hiked nine times – over 30 trail miles – in the last six days. It felt good to get so much hiking in, especially with my parents. There are so many ways we could have spent our time together, but hiking seemed the most appropriate. A few hours before my plane flew me home to Southern California, we went to REI where my parents excitedly bought trekking poles. It brings a smile to my face when I think of them on the trail in the coming years.

Thoughts about the hike:

There are small shacks below the rocks supplied with emergency rescue supplies in case a climber takes a fall. Unfortunately, there are many fatal falls in this park, which is home of the first 5.14 (read: REALLY hard) climbing route in the US.
Unless the rocky spires are between you and the sun, there’s very little shade in this park.

Resources:

Hike #38 Trip GPS Stats:

Date of hike: June 25th, 2009
Location: Smith Rock State Park, Terrebonne, Oregon
Length: 4.3 miles
Duration: 4 hours, 18 minutes
Average speed: ±1 mph
Altitude at start: 2,822 feet
Altitude min.max: 2,664/3,360 feet

This map was made with the data my GPS captured on the hike.
For a more detailed trip report map, check this out.

Photos:

Monolithic rocks of Smith Rocks State Park

Crooked River

Dad stops to look at a really big rock in the river.

Stained stones

Well groomed River Trail

Bucks!

Another buck!

See the waterfall?

I love how the water glows with the reflection of the rocks.

Wildflowers along the trail

Rock spires

View from the Mesa Verde Trail facing northwest.

Monkey Face with climbers

The clouds make it appear that the monkey is smoking

I'll stick to hiking, thankyouverymuch.

View from Misery Ridge facing northwest with Mt. Jefferson in the background.

Coming down Misery Trail on the east side of the ridge.

The River Trail starts at the footbridge (lower left) and wraps around the rocks clockwise.

Mom & Dad after our last day of hiking.

Tags: Oregon, Smith Rock State Park

Hike 37 – Wizard Island, Crater Lake NP

Jan 4

Posted by Kolby in hikes | View Comments

DO NOT ADJUST YOUR SCREEN. THAT'S NOT TIDYBOWL CLEANER!

One of the greatest things about Bend, Oregon is the amount of activities one can do within a short drive of town. All of the hikes my parents and I have done in the last six days (hikes #30-36) were within an hour’s drive from town. On my sixth day visiting my home state, my parents and I took a drive 3 hours south to spend the day at Crater Lake National Park, the only National Park in the state. With just a day to see the large park, we would have to plan our trip wisely. After scanning the web for hike options at the park, one stuck out more than the rest, quite literally. There is one major land mass poking out of the deep-blue lake: Wizard Island.

We arrived into Crater Lake NP via the north entrance around 8:45am. You’d think that this would give us a full day to explore many of the sights of the park, eh? Yeah, I though so too, but not the case. Not only is the park massive – 286 square miles, the lake is just 20.4 square miles of that – but there are very few roads within the park. Wouldn’t you know it, we arrived on a day where they were working on the main road running the perimeter of the lake. These delays caused us to rush and plan out our time to the minute, two things I hate to do while traveling.

When we reached the rim of the lake, we stopped to check out the view. My parents and I don’t recall if I had ever been here before, even though I was born and raised in Oregon, but ooking out over the lake with its famous deep shimmering blue water, I think I would have remembered if I was here before: the sight was not one I would have forgotten! You can see for 100 miles from the highest vantage points in the park.

We stopped into the small ticket booth at Cleetwood Cove to purchase our tickets to Wizard Island. Boats leave about once an hour, but only a couple allow for a long enough stay to explore the small island. Reservations can be made in advance for half the tickets and the other half are on a “first come first served” basis. After purchasing our tickets for a noon departure, we had just enough time to rush over to Rim Village to buy some picnic supplies before rushing back to catch the boat. I’m sue without the construction work on the road, we would have had plenty of time to hang out at the small village and browse the gift shop, but with 20+ minute delays, we were cutting it close. But getting to the boat was more than just a park and a short walk. I could have made the hike down to the dock and back a hike unto itself. One must hike down the steep, 11%-grade Cleetwood Cove Trail, dropping 650 feet in elevation in less than a mile. The trail isn’t for everyone: going down isn’t too hard, but the trip back up can be difficult for those that aren’t in great shape.

We made it down to the Cleetwood Cove dock with enough time to make a little lunch and dip our feet in the ice-cold water. It was mesmerizing to see the rocks below the dock so well. The lake is not only one of the deepest in the world, but one of the clearest as well. Measurements taken using a Secchi disk revealed that one could peer 173 feet (52.8 meters) into the lake.

We departed from the cove at noon in a full boat. There were visitors from around the world on board, something I enjoy seeing when visiting national parks. The 45-minute boat ride included a ranger-guided tour. The ranger couldn’t have been more than 24 years of age, but he was very knowledgeable about the lake and it’s history. We arrived at the Wizard Island dock around 12:45pm.

On the island, the 42 passengers didn’t waist any time getting off the boat and on their way. The last boat of the day would be back to pick us up at 3:30pm and there wasn’t as moment to spare. Some brought fishing poles and headed out to the nearby cove to see how many they could reel in (no permits necessary, no catch limits). Others headed up to the top of the island. More than a few spent their time near the dock, either reading a book or swimming. Mom & Dad decided to stay at the shoreline. They have done seven hikes with me in the past five days and it has started to wear them down. I delayed my start up to the summit. I wanted to let the other hikers get up the trail a bit before I started, allowing me to hike with my thoughts. The plan worked and I found myself seemingly alone on the island. I sat down on a log and enjoyed the tranquility, writing in my hiking journal and listening to the birds and the wind. Last year, 415,686 people visited this park, and yet I feel like the last man on the planet sitting here.

I didn’t more than 2-3 people on the trail until I got to the top of the 750-foot cinder cone. I couldn’t have planned it better with all of the fifteen or so summit hikers heading down just as I arrived. I stood on the top, looking down into the “Witch’s Cauldron” – the caldera of this small volcano on the lake. The view of the surrounding lake and the sheer cliffs holding the lake were exhilarating! And to have the view all to myself for at least 30 minutes was heavenly.

After taking a handful of pictures and some video (see below), I headed back down to the cove. Our boat arrived just minutes after my return and when everyone was accounted for, we departed. The boat ride back to Cleetwood Cove took about 70 minutes and included a full tour of the southern and eastern coastlines of the lake. We saw waterfalls in Chaski Bay, circled Phantom Ship, a small rocky island that looks a little like a sailing ship, and saw Pumice Castle and Sentinel Rock, among other geological formations. We sat on top of the deepest point of the lake – where the land is about 1,932 feet below the water’s surface – before heading back to Cleetwood Cove.

Many of the passengers in our boat struggled up the 1-mile trail to their vehicles. I admit, it was pretty grueling for me as well – but I felt in really good shape and kept a good pace the entire way up. My parents didn’t do a bad job either, but they were a hurtin’. My dad’s knee started to bother him and he had to stop frequently. Could this be the last hike they do with me for 100hikes? We’ll see…

Thoughts about the hike:

The boats on Crater Lake only run during the summer months (mid-July to mid-September). The tickets cost us $20 a piece, but don’t be surprised if they raised the price yet again when you go.
The animals on Wizard Island have been separated from the rest of the world for centuries. The garter snakes on the island have adapted to their surroundings and lost their stripes!
We brought walkie-talkies with us on this trip. They came in very useful when exploring Wizard Island.

Resources:

Hike #37 Trip GPS Stats:

Date of hike: July 23th, 2009
Location: Crater Lake National Park, Oregon
Length: 5.1 miles (minus the boat ride)
Duration: 6 hours
Average speed: n/a
Altitude at start: 6,850 feet
Altitude min.max: 6,176/6,850 feet

This map was made with the data my GPS captured on the hike.
For a more detailed trip report map, check this out.

Video:

Photos:

Never underestimate the mosquitoes of Oregon. This one kissed me long enough to leave this nickel-sized bite on my cheek.

Wizard Island inside of Crater Lake.

The hike down to Cleetwood Cove, the only boat dock on the lake.

Crater Lake is the deepest lake in the United States at an average of 1,148 feet deep (1,932 at it's deepest spot). This extreme depth and how the sunlight interacts with the water is what causes the unique color of blue.

Mt. Scott, the highest peak in the park at 8,929 feet, seems to peek over the caldera's edge in the distance. From the rim of the caldera to the lake's surface is an average of 1,000 feet.

Having a little picnic on the dock of Cleetwood Cove. Dad has his feet in the frigid water.

Lots of great wildflowers in bloom - but many were wilted due to the warm weather.

One of the privately-owned, ranger-guided boats of Crater Lake, departing Cleetwood Cove every hour or so.

A golden-mantled ground squirrel of Wizard Island

More wildflowers

I love the contrast between the neon-green of the moss on the trees and the deep blue of the lake.

Hiking on volcanic territory

The signal crayfish (Pacifastacus leniusculus) of Crater Lake

Still snow and it's the middle of July! On average, Crater Lake NP gets 44 feet of snow a year, making it one of the snowiest places in the world.

Phantom Ship, a unique rocky island on Crater Lake.

The island has seven different types of trees.

Hiking back up the Cleetwood Cove Trail

Out boat, anchored in Cleetwood Cove.

Check out the subtle changes of color in the water during the sunset!

Sunset over the park.

Celebrating our hike with drinks on the patio of the Crater Lake Lodge. Wizard Island in the background.

Tags: Cleetwood Cove Trail, Crater Lake Lodge, Crater Lake National Park, Oregon, Phantom Ship, Wizard Island

Progress Report (January 1st)

Jan 1

Posted by Kolby in hikes | View Comments

All one hundred hikes portrayed by one hundred images.

The experience of this project was more than I could ever have fathomed. So much about how I see myself and the world has changed over the course of 240 days. For one, my appreciation for the outdoors has grown considerably. Hiking and the outdoors has been ingrained into who I am and it has helped to define the goals I have for the future. (More on that later).

But let me back up. In fact, let me back up quite a bit. I might have completed the hiking aspect of this project, but the project is far from complete. As of now, I have only blogged about 36 hikes. The last hike I posted was done way back on July 22nd! That means I have 63 hikes to tell you about, and I must say, I am really excited to share with you my outdoor experiences. I have yet to tell you about my hikes in Utah, where I did one of the most dangerous hikes in America, according to Backpacker Magazine. I have yet to tell you about my search for the largest Joshua Tree in the world, or a long-forgotten aspen grove deep in the San Bernardino Mountains. Or the amazing hikes I did in Chile, where I climbed an snow-covered active volcano, or Bolivia, where I explored the ancient ruins of a civilization that disappeared long ago. Yes, the destination has been reached, but it is the journey that has to be told.

View from Echo Mountain on hike #100. December 30th, 2009.

So, for those of you who like graphs and numbers, here’s the details of all 100 hikes.

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I hiked about 417.4 miles to get me to 100 hikes. Here’s a breakdown of my mileage. (Click on a bar to find out more info):

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Here’s some numbers to ponder:

Number of hikes completed: 100
Number of days into project: 239
Number of miles hiked: 417.4 miles
Longest hike: 15.9 miles (Hike #48 – San Gorgonio Mountain)
Hardest hike: Hike #21 (Telescope Peak, Death Valley)
Furthest hike from home: Hike #86 (Villarrica, Chile – 5,864 miles from Arcadia, CA)

If you hike with me, you become a prestigious respected member of the “100 Hikes Club.” Quite a few people joined me for my final hikes – 20 on the last one alone!

Number of members: 77 (and three dogs)
Top 6 ranking members:
- Dad (9 hikes: #30, 31, 32, 33, 34, 35, 36, 37 & 38)
- Melanie (8 hikes: #5, 13, 26, 29, 40, 74, 99 & 100)
- Mom (7 hikes: #30, 31, 33, 34, 36, 37 & 38)
Three-way tie for 4th:
- Samantha (5 hikes: #18, 21, 39, 42 & 100)
- Bob (5 hikes: #28, 72, 73, 75, & 100)
- Chris (5 hikes: #6, 21, 42, 44 & 63)

I’d like to thank the entire 100 Hikes Club for all of their support, in alphabetical order: Aaron & his Mom, Alma, Ari, Art, Becquie, Brooklyn, Cairo, Casey, Dea, Domenic, Elizabeth, Gregory, Emily, Hernan, Hobie, Jamie, Josh, Kasey, Kristen & her dog Heidi, Leo, Leonar, Lori, Lynda & her dog Volt, Mark, MaryEllen, Max The Wonder Dog, Michael G., Michael W., Mike, The Mystery Hiker, Nikki, Peter, Sharon, Shawn, Shawnté, Siena, Steve & Tony. Thank you all for getting out on the trail with me!

Tags: progress report

Hike 36 – Lava River Cave

Oct 27

Posted by Kolby in hikes | View Comments

This hike was spelunk-tastic!

This photo is a 10-second exposure. There is no natural or artificial light in this cave that isnt brought in by a visitor. The trail of light below my feet is from someone scooting by while holding a lantern all-the-while I am doing my best impression of a statue.

Getting tired of hiking through vegetation? Or hiking in places where you can see the sky? Or hiking where you can see anything at all? Then visit the Lava River Caves State Park! Located within (literally) the Newberry National Volcanic Monument is a lava tube, or a cave created by lava that once flowed through here eons ago. My last hike (hike #35) ended at a nice café in Bend, where I read the local newspaper and watched people go about their day. The paper had a full-page article on the caves of the area, suggesting to readers to take the journey below ground where sunlight never shines and stalagmites spend eternity trying to touch stalactites. You had me at “below,” Bend Bulletin. You had me at “below.”

My parents and I arrived at the Lava River Cave entrance early in the afternoon. It was a scorcher of a day, with temperatures reaching into the 90s. But the cave is always a cool 30-40 degrees, no matter if it’s a broiling summer day or there’s 4 feet of winter snow on the ground. If you’ve ever gone into a walk-in freezer on a summer day, you know how we felt entering the cave. In less than 100 yards of hiking, the temperature dropped 50 degrees.

Mom and Dad rented a gas lantern to light our way, making our expedition more like those in the 19th century. Some of the lanterns looked like they were first used in those days, having probably been bumped and dropped countless times. I came prepared with my headlamp. It would malfunction from time to time on this hike, showing me exactly how dark it can get in this cave.

We didn’t have the cave to ourselves. There were many families throughout the cave, sometimes causing a backup – especially at the cave entrance where there are many narrow steps to navigate. Once inside a bit, the cave opens up to a large winding tube, very much shaped like a subway tunnel or the innards of a space slug like in Empire Strike’s Back. The ground is dirt and stone, smoothed from over 60 years of visitors. My parents told me that I had been here as a kid in the winter, but I have no recollection of it.

After a half mile or so, the cave ceiling seems to become closer and closer. Actually, the cave is the same size, but the fine volcanic sand on the floor is getting deeper, bringing us closer to the ceiling. By 3/4ths of a mile, I have to hunch over in order to continue. My parents decide to call it a day when the tunnel is no longer big enough for a compact car to drive through. But I have become obsessed on seeing the end of the tunnel and continue on alone.

I am now the biggest person in this section of the cave, for all of their adult-sized parents have left their height-restricted children to continue on. From time to time I’d pass a parent covered in sand with look in their eyes like they’ve just spent the last half hour exploring the inside of a coffin. I continued on.

Soon I was the only one in the cave, the muffled echoes of children on my tail. Although the cave is still about 6-7 feet wide, it’s only 3 feet tall. My knees and hands are freezing from crawling through the damp sand. From time to time, I’d enter a small room, where the ceiling was just high enough for me to walk awkwardly for 15-20 feet before having to crawl again. Each time, the rooms would become smaller and I’d think the next section would be the end. But it kept going and going until the next access point was quite possibly no bigger than my girth. It looked similar to a hole dug by a dog under a fence. I couldn’t see beyond, but I knew the next room was a short crawl away. I studied the hole leading into the next room for just long enough to picture myself getting stuck and having some kids to try in vain to pull me out before they turned around and left. I could hear the conversations when they rejoined their parents:

“How was the rest of the journey, Billy?”
“It was totally cool until some fat man got stuck in the cave and we had to turn around.”

I turned around, content at leaving the rest of the tunnel for those with smaller frames.

Thoughts about the hike:

They only have a certain number of oil lanterns for rent (until 4pm daily), so if they’re all checked out, you need to wait in line for the next one to be returned. I suggest bringing your own flashlight or headlamp to save some time.
With such low clearance along the trail, a baseball hat might be good for protecting the noggin’, but wear it backwards so you can see the low-hanging rocks before bumping into them.
On my way out, I followed a family. I laughed when I heard the young boy of the clan explain to his parents how small the last section was: “Only a breakfast sausage could fit in there!”
From the opening of the cave to the furthest excavated part of the tunnel is 5,200 feet, or just short of a mile. I included the walk from the parking lot to the cave in order to make this a 2-mile RT hike.
This cave is closed every year from October 15th to May 1st to protect the western big-eared bats who hibernate in the cave through the winter. Any disturbances during this time might awaken them, causing them to use the limited supply of stored fat, resulting in a decline of the species.

Resources:

Hike #36 Trip GPS Stats:

Date of hike: July 22nd, 2009
Location: Newberry National Volcanic Monument, outside of Sunriver, Oregon
Length: 2 miles
Duration: 2 hours, 4 minutes
Average speed: n/a
Altitude at start: 4,500 feet
Altitude min.max: 4,350/4,500 feet

Video:

Since it is impossible to capture GPS data while in a cave, I’ve drawn out a rough trail route for this hike using walkjogrun.net.

Rough sketch of the cave location

Photos:

Mom & Dad sitting on a natural bench within the cave. This is a 10-second exposure.

Another long exposure shot. What looks like a glowing snake with thousands of legs is just two spelunkers holding a lantern.

A wider area of the tunnel. Two lanterns were used by visitors to unknowingly light this long-exposure photo.

Tags: Deschutes National Forest, Lava River Caves State Park, Newberry National Volcanic Monument, Oregon

Hike 35 – Deschutes River Trail

Oct 14

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A nice stroll down the Deschutes in downtown Bend, Oregon.

Dad and I on #35 in Bend, Oregon

One of my favorite hikes to do while in Bend, Oregon is on the trail along the Deschutes River. I have fond memories of walking this trail as a child. It was here that my grandmother pointed out birds, flowers, and chipmunks. I believe that some of the earliest hiking in my life was done on this trail.

For this hike today, my Dad would be joining me. This trek would start at the front door of my parent’s house and end downtown at a coffee shop just about two miles to the south. I used walkjogrun.net to map this route out to make certain that the hike would equal at least two miles, my minimum hiking distance in order to make it official. Despite the distance, I’m not entirely comfortable calling this a “hike” since the trail is more of a park path with short detours into the neighborhoods. But it’s nice to be outdoors and hiking with my Dad.

The Deschutes River, a major tributary of the Columbia River, twists and turns its way through central Oregon. It has been called a “peculiar river” because it flows north whereas most US rivers flow south. The river trail follows the shoreline a relatively short distance at 9.1 miles, winding through the heart of Bend. While outside of town, the trail is actually three parallel trails – for hikers, bikers, and equestrians – in town, there is just one wide gravel trail shared by all. We saw mainly runners on the trail on our trek this warm Tuesday morning, but on a weekend, families and outdoor enthusiasts would share the trail.

Thoughts about the hike:

I like how everyone greets each other as they pass, even if they’re out of breath and in the “zone” with their workout. It seems that people go out of their way to say hello.

Hike #35 Trip GPS Stats:

Date of hike: July 21st, 2009
Location: Deschutes River, Bend, Oregon
Length: 2.3 miles
Duration: 1 hour, 8 minutes
Average speed: ±2.0 mph
Altitude at start: 3,567 feet
Altitude min.max: 3,567/3,651 feet

This map was made with the data my GPS captured on the hike.
For a more detailed trip report map, check this out.

Photos:

The trail was well marked and well groomed.

A runner along the trail, the Deschutes on the left.

A very lush area with much to see. Two beautiful geese floated by on the river soon after this shot was taken.

Dad along the mighty Deschutes. He was raised in Bend before going off to college. After a dozen or so moves and two states later, Mom and Dad recently moved back to Bend just a few miles from where he grew up.

A gosling and its parents in Bend.

A fisherman along the wider section of the Deschutes, the Cascade Mountains in the distance.

One of the many beautiful little homes that can be found in downtown Bend just off of the river trail.

Tags: Bend, Deschutes River Trail, Oregon

Hike 34 – Ray Atkeson Memorial Trail

Oct 14

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A hike that rediscovers my father’s childhood water hole.

My Dad and I on the trail. At one point on the trail, you can see all three surrounding giants: Mount Bachelor, Broken Top, and the South Sister. In this photo, Mt. Bachelor was being camera shy and refused to join in on the group shot.

Before hike #34, my parents and I stopped by Elk Lake. We met up with my aunt and uncle, who have lived outside of Newport, Oregon for most of my life but recently bought a house near Bend. They joined us for lunch on the patio of the restaurant that sits on the eastern end of the lake. To replenish the liquids lost on the morning hike (hike #33), I had a few locally brewed beers. Life doesn’t get any better after an icy Deschutes Brewery beer in a frozen mug. So after three of them, I realized that I wasn’t going to be the day I would complete three hikes.

Our second hike of the day was at Sparks Lake, a shallow lake with ten miles of shoreline. The Ray Atkeson Memorial Trail, named after a local photographer, explores the eastern side of the lake. The lima-bean shaped loop provides impressive views of the surrounding mountains – Bachelor, Tumalo, Broken Top, and South Sister – as well as the placid lake with its unique rocky shoreline. Mom begun the hike to get a sense of the trail, but turned around to spend time reading along the water’s edge.

I liked this hike for the diversity of the terrain. Hiking the trail clockwise, the first mile is through a pine forest with patches of lava rock outcroppings and fissures, looking somewhat like slot canyons. We stood looking down into one crack that was at least 40 feet deep. After hiking a mile, we found a small knoll with a great view of the surrounding mountains: Mount Bachelor, Broken Top, and the South Sister. From the knoll, the trail travels south, then west towards the shoreline, which hasn’t been visible since the trailhead. Before views of Sparks Lake came into view, we walked along a ridge looking into a natural (?) pit in lava rock. Chipmunks hid among the volcanic rocks, taking curious peaks at us before bouncing away.

Once we did reach the rocky edge of Sparks Lake, Dad realized where he was: his childhood swimming hole. Like an unexpected gift, he remembered coming here with his friend during the lazy-day summers of his youth in the 1950′s.

We continued walking the shoreline until we returned to the trailhead.

Thoughts about the hike:

This hike has it all. Mountains, a lake, rocks. It would make a great introduction to hiking in Central Oregon.

Hike #34 Trip GPS Stats:

Date of hike: July 20th, 2009
Location: Sparks Lake, Deschutes National Forest, Oregon
Length: 2.8 miles
Duration: 2 hours, 7 minutes
Average speed: ±1.3 mph
Altitude at start: 5,447 feet
Altitude min.max: 5,431/5,518 feet

This map was made with the data my GPS captured on the hike.
For a more detailed trip report map, check this out.

Photos:

My aunt and uncle on their bike, departing after a nice lunch at Elk Lake

Oregon does not have a shortage of lava rocks and beautiful wild flowers.

Mount Bachelor through the trees.

Green lichen growing on volcanic rock.

Dad became a fan of trekking poles during my visit. In this photo, he's using one of mine.

The short cut reduces the 2.8 mile loop to just 1.2 miles.

Dad remembers coming to this swimming hole as a kid.

South Sister over Sparks Lake.

Notice the natural stain on the rocks, representing the water level in the past.

A beautiful yellow velvet long-horned beetle (Cosmosalia chrysocoma).

Tags: Broken Top Mountain, Cascade Mountains, Davis Canyon Loop, Deschutes National Forest, Elk Lake, Elk Lake Resort, Mount Bachelor, Oregon, Ray Atkeson Memorial Trail, South Sister, Sparks Lake

Hike 33 – Todd Lake Trail to Soda Creek Trail

Oct 12

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Dad and I Mt Bachelor on #33 - 1/3 the way to 100!

I wish I knew my grandfather better. When I was born, he was in the final chapter of a long life. He had been a logger and worked on the green chain, hard and dangerous work. I have memories of visiting my grandfather and grandmother during the holidays in Bend, Oregon. He had a quiet way about him and most of my memories of him have him siting quietly in the living room of their small house in Bend, studying the world with smiling eyes. He seemed like a man with deep thoughts that he kept to himself. He passed in 1983 when I was just 8-years old.

When I visited my grandmother on this trip and discussed hiking options in the area, she told me something I had never heard before: My grandfather’s cremated ashes were scattered in the Cascade Mountains, just above Todd Lake. I decided immediately to go on this hike. I felt like it was important for me to see the spot where my grandfather rests.

My parents and I got an early start, hoping to get in three hikes today. The Todd Lake Trailhead is located less than an hour from Bend, Oregon – in the shadow of Mount Bachelor. I learned how to ski in the Cascades and our family has taken many Holiday season ski trips to Bachelor. The drive towards the mountain along the Cascades Lakes Scenic Byway was a familiar one, but it was strange to be here in the summer and see so little snow on the sleeping volcano. When we arrived at the trailhead parking, we were surprised to see the lot packed with vehicles. We hoped to have the trail to our selves, considering it was Monday, but we would learn that the senior hiking clubs in the surrounding area would organize weekday excursions to this trail. It’s nice to see older people on the trails rather than withering away in a retirement home, but I wish they decided to do it another day.

The Todd Lake Trail is a gateway to other, longer routes in the area, including Broken Top Mountain, South Sister, and Green Lakes. The trail runs 11.8 miles, but we would only go in about 2.5 miles, at the Soda Creek trail junction, before turning around. The first half mile of this trek is a gradual incline. I’m still getting used to the altitude, which starts at 6,100 feet.

It wasn’t far along the trail that we found where my grandfather’s ashes were scattered. A powerful outcrop of rock stood out from the forest above the trail, just as my grandmother recalled. I stood for a moment paying my respects to my grandfather the best way I knew, trying to capture the scene on film. Although my grandfather wasn’t a big fan of hiking – my grandmother began the activity after he passed – I felt like he was with us for the remainder of the trek, enjoying the forest through our eyes. I definitely consider him an honorary member of the 100 hikes club, even if just in spirit.

The amount of flora in the Cascades is startling. Dabs of purple, strokes of yellow, and spots of red paint the trail. My week of hiking in the Cascades inadvertently coincided around the peak of the wildflower season. I picked up a copy of Wildflowers of the Pacific Northwest, or what I call, “the flower bible,” while in the bookstore in Bend. The 512-pages describe in detail 1,200-species of flowers. The 1,247 gorgeous photos helped provide the names of these beautiful stems of color and shape. After the hike, I enjoy flipping through the book and trying to identify the flowers I photographed on the trail.

The butterflies here are equally as colorful. It slowed down my hiking progress considerably, but I was able to get close enough to photograph a few skiddish winged insects such as tiny Northern blue and the visiting California tortoiseshell. I’ve posted a gallery of the Oregon Butterflies I photographed on my other blog, bugshutterbug.com. Most of the photos were taken along this trail.

Thoughts about the hike:

A new term I would like to coin: mosquito motivated – to hike without pause in order to keep the mosquitoes from biting you.
Todd Lake was formerly called Lost Lake due to the difficulty in finding it. It was renamed by request of the people of Bend, who believed the name caused confusion with the other nineteen lakes in Oregon named Lost Lake.

Resources:

Hike #22 Trip GPS Stats: